The imposing view of bulky Vitosha Mountain, with its granite slopes covered with lovely pines, looms over Sofia's streets. Easily accessible by both bus and car, the Vitosha is considered by the locals as very much a section of their city. If you enjoy walking, an exploration of Vitosha is well recommended - there are walker-friendly trails that are well marked. Linger to admire wayside flowers or observe a unique natural feature -­ the moraine,­ a seemingly dry river with huge boulders. The slopes are also a good place to observe the relaxed life of the locals or enjoy a picnic. Come December to late spring, the slopes are perfect for skiers - accommodation is available in plenty in the form of both hotels and chalets.

Take a lingering journey through the works of prominent nineteenth and twentieth-century artists by visiting The National Art Gallery. Established in 1948, the Gallery was once a part of the palace. Today, it has more than 12,000 exhibits featuring works by painters Vladimir Dimitrov-Maistora, Zahari Zograph, Tzanko Lavrenov, and sculptor Andrei Nikolov among others. Airy display halls have walls covered with red velvet, and huge crystal mirrors adorn the rooms. Rococo plaster of Paris ornaments and multi-coloured marble fireplaces are some of the magnificent features you can see here. However the fading decor and the hanging ceiling plaster wistfully remind you of a bygone era rather than showcase the artwork. The south-facing wing is in appreciably better condition, its more dramatic halls providing a suitable venue for temporary exhibits of modern graphics, sketches and watercolours.

The National Palace of Culture is located in the centre of Sofia, with the Vitosha Mountain as its backdrop. Extremely well equipped with modern technology and infrastructure, the 16 halls can seat from 50 to 4,000 people many of whom are interpreters, working round the clock to translate in more than 14 languages. It's not just about work though, delegates and visitors can wind down at cafes, bowling alleys, night clubs and more. A landmark building in south-eastern Europe, the NPC is a member of ICCA (International Congress and Convention Association), BCB (Bulgarian Convention Bureau) and AIPC (International Association of Congress Palaces).

The Boyana Church, dating back to the eleventh century, is situated in the attractive suburb of Boyona at the foot of the Vitosha Mountains. It's no surprise that the church is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List,­ the frescoes here are claimed to be some of the most exclusive samples of East European medieval art. The murals, painted in 1259, are perhaps the most beautiful part of the temple. The 89 scenes with 240 human images are a beautiful testimony to the artist's skilful blend of iconographical canon dictates with real life art.

In the garden of the Boyona church lies the grave of the patriarch of Bulgarian literature, Ivan Vazov. There is a boulder engraved with a tribute to the poet and writer, in front of the church. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier with a burning flame stands solemnly nearby.

Almost at the centre of the city stands the St. Kliment Ohridski University - the most modern and well equipped educational and research institute in the country. It's also the oldest and is a daunting Baroque style building. At the entrance are the statues of Hristo and Evlogi Georgiev, the founding fathers of the institute who contributed generously towards establishing the University in 1909. French architect Breanson designed this exquisite building.  

Santa is often remembered here! Russian workmen built the St. Nicholas church in 1912 and dedicated it to the saint whom they hailed as "the miracle maker." Sveta Nikolai is arguably the loveliest church in Sofia. Green majolica tiles line the roof and the structure is crowned with gold-plated onion shaped domes. Recently the Moscow Patriarchate renovated the structure and the building now gleams with gold. Visited more often than the church, is a crypt that lies to the left side of the main entrance. The tomb of the former Bishop Serafin, who died in 1950, is found here. Faithful Bulgarians throng the tomb to drop hand-written messages into a box placed next to the tomb. Though Serafin was never canonised, he is remembered and revered fondly as a saint and the locals fervently believe that he fulfils their prayers and wishes.

3 Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1800; services Sat 0900 and 1700, Sun 0900.
Admission: Free.

Named after Bulgaria's most renowned poet and writer, the 'Ivan Vazov' National Theatre is another signature building in Sofia. Ingenuously crafted in German classicism, it combines the then fashionable style of Secession. The facade of this lovely building entails six columns supporting a massive triangular pediment, adorned with high reliefs of mythological characters. Sculptures of the goddess Nike top twin towers, and the corridor moves to galleries that can seat about 850 people. Two raised performance arenas are also there with seats ranging between 100 and 150.

Byzantine influences abound in Sofia's architecture and the Sveta Nedelya, with its massive dome, is a splendid example. A church has nestled here from medieval times. The original church was destroyed to a great extent when Communist forces killed several people at a funeral service attended by Tsar Boris III and his cabinet ministers. The current building is more reflective of restoration in the mid-nineteenth century.

In times gone by, Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya used to be named after Lenin and his statue dominated the square. Since then, a 24m (79ft) bronze statue of Sofia, Goddess Protector of the city, has been placed as the appropriate substitute. Sofia city is named after the Goddess.

Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800.
Admission: Free.

On the street across the St. Nevedelya is the Largo. The Central Department store is to one side, the former Communist Party headquarters to the other, albeit without its red star. The Presidency is positioned to the right and the Council of Ministers is to the left.

A visit to the Sheraton Balkan Hotel is a must if only to see the tiny, deep-set redbrick Rotunda of St. George (Rotunda Sveti Georgi) standing in the courtyard. The Rotunda is one of the oldest preserved buildings in Sofia, and dates back to a fourth century Roman temple. It has an eventful history, having been partially destroyed by the Huns, re-established as a church by Emperor Justinian in the sixth century, then converted by the Turks into a mosque, and then restored as a church. Painstaking restoration work has unmasked exquisite medieval frescoes dating back to the tenth century. This was concealed by plaster during the long years of the Ottoman rule.

The imposing cupola showcases a portrait of Christ the Pantocrator. The portrait which dates back to the fourteenth century is encircled by four angels and Evangelist icons. Art enthusiasts can again marvel at the fresco of 22 prophets holding scrolls with texts in Bulgarian and Greek. The fresco is believed to date back to the twelfth century. Ancient ruins of the roman town Serdica lie eastwards from the Rotunda. 

5 Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya
Tel: (02) 981 6541.
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700 (winter); daily 0800-1800 (summer); liturgy 0900 every day.
Admission: Free; donations appreciated.

The collection here is jaw-dropping - an eclectic mix of Thracian gold treasures, bas-reliefs, ceramics, silverware, carpets and more - The National History Museum was assembled in 1981 to celebrate 1,300 years of the Bulgarian State and a better commemoration there could not be. Exhibits are artfully displayed, often individually so they can be fully appreciated. The artefacts are testimony to the achievements of the medieval kingdoms, and there is an elaborate collection of material from the National Revival period, including folk costumes, household utensils and carpets. The museum covers the whole period from prehistory to the current times, with relics from the earliest period up to the middle Ages. Highlights include the Panagyurishte treasure of silver and gold, archaeological exhibits, the religious art of the nineteenth century Bulgarian National Revival, including carpets, folk costumes and rooms furnished in the trends of bygone eras.  

The ancient market is a microcosm of Bulgarian street life. Within the three-storey building of the Central Hali Shopping Centre, a variety of shops nestle comfortably - a fairly big restaurant, a food court of eight integrated fast food chains, a bar, a storage specialty with freezers and dry storage compartments, and a cash exchange bureau. Named after the famed Les Halles in Paris, the Central Hali was constructed from 1909 to 1911 as Sofia's principal marketplace. Legend has it that in the early days only men shopped here, a single woman would be compelled to tempt a little boy to do her shopping for a few pennies. You can now see many a Bulgarian woman loaded with shopping bags here.

Hali's ornate facade features elements of Byzantine and medieval Bulgarian architecture with tiered stone and brick, spacious window ledges and an arch in the centre, with a small clock tower at the very top. Archaeological studies have shown that the site was an ancient marketplace, probably dating back several thousand years. Archaeological remains can also be found in the basement, including typical Roman baths and a portion of Serdica's fortress wall. Hali was renovated as a supermarket but fell into disuse after 1989, it was then refurbished extensively in 1999. Hali has now reclaimed its place as the city's most prominent and colourful central marketplace.

The creation of the Bulgarian Parliament occurred in three phases between 1884 and 1928. The design was based on the blueprint of Yovanovich, the renowned Viennese architect. The words engraved on the main facade translate as 'union makes strength'.

The cover page of many a guide book to the city, Alexander Nevski is a splendid neo-Byzantine church, with striking gold and copper domes. The Nevski, built over a thirty year span (1882-1912), originated as a memorial to the Russian soldiers who lost their lives when the army freed Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire in 1878. The name is a tribute to Alexander Nevski, who saved Russia from Swedish soldiers in 1240 and was the patron saint of the Tsar and his family, (this Tsar was hailed as Tsar Osvoboditel or the Tsar Liberator, who defeated the Turks)

The tributes continue in the interior - the middle altar is consecrated to St. Alexander Nevski, the northern altar to Saints Cyril and Methodius (credited with creating the Cyrillic alphabet) and the southern to St. Boris (credited with introducing Christianity to Bulgaria). The cathedral's murals owe their exquisiteness to Russian and Bulgarian artists. A key halt within has to be The Icon Museum.

There is a crypt museum where art enthusiasts will be spellbound by hundreds of frescoes and mural icons that trace the evolution of icon-painting in Bulgaria from the end of the ninth century right up to the last leg of the nineteenth century. Most of these have been excavated from Bulgaria's many monasteries. English labels make it easy for the tourist, and guidebooks are available in both Bulgarian and English. The Nevski is common to every traveller's agenda in Sofia and you can easily pick up a souvenir from the Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski - a square where several stall owners gather, hawking souvenirs, shiny new ‘antiques' and other touristy kitsch.

Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski.
St Alexander Nevski Memorial Church
Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800; services 0800 and 1700, Sat 1800, Sun 1700.
Admission: Free.

Icon Museum
Tel: (02) 877 697.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: Lv10.

An eclectic collection of icons, possibly the finest in Bulgaria, is on display at the Crypt. The museum displays icons from the early days of Bulgarian iconography (believed to be the end of the ninth century) and the evolving style till a near demise in the end of the nineteenth century. The various phases of the Bulgarian iconography school are showcased in an ensemble of more than 1500 items.

Enclosed in the Buyuk Mosque (Big Mosque) which is a lovely ivy covered structure, the Natzionalen Archeologicheski Musei (National Archaeological Museum) is a must-visit just to admire the design and construction. The museum has had a recent face lift, and was reopened after restoration work. The interiors now gleam brightly and all exhibits are labelled in both English and Bulgarian. The key curiosities include Greek, Thracian and Roman pieces and even a mosaic supposedly loosened from the floor of the church. The Vulchitrun Treasure though is where the queues appear - a 12.5kg (27lb) assortment of 13 ornamented and unexplainably shaped vessels of real gold. One can imagine kings of yore performing rites and rituals in royal fashion with these gleaming vessels. 

English tourists are recommended to visit with someone who speaks Bulgarian if they want to get the guard at the gate talking - he knows more than a thing or two about the collection and its well worth the effort, especially as the captions are not adequate. Like many of the other attractions, the Museum has its own little shop selling souvenirs and reproductions. The Art Club Museum cafe behind the museum is ideal to rest tired feet and have a drink or snack, the ambience enhanced by the engraved Roman marbles in the courtyard.

2 Saborna Ulica
Tel: (02) 882 405.
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: Lv5.

There were nearly 70 mosques in Sofia in the years gone by, yet the Banya Bashi Dzhamiya (Banya Bashi Dzhamiya) is the only one where prayers are still held in routine fashion. The beauty of the Banya Bashi is hardly surprising - it was designed in 1576 by Sinan, the architect behind the stunning Sultan Selim Mosque in Edirne and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul and several other masterpieces of the time. As is typical with Sinan's work, the most remarkable feature is the domed ceiling, restored to its original plan only after the fall of Communism. Loudspeakers on the graceful minaret faithfully call the city's Muslim community to pray five times a day. On a Friday, one can see almost 400 heads bent in prayer. Being a functional mosque, it is not officially open to tourists but visitors are welcome outside of prayer hours.  

Islamic arts typically ban the portrayal of human images, and the interiors are engraved with passages from the Koran in a delicate calligraphy style.

The name Banya Bashi has its roots in the nearby Tsentralnata Banya (Central Baths). Banya Bashi simply means a lot of baths! The Romans built the first baths here aeons ago, although this particular bath only dates back to 1911. Sip the steaming mineral water (46°C/115°F) from public taps in the square in front of the mosque.

Maria Louiza Boulevard at Triyaditsa Ulica
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0500-2000 or 2100.
Admission: Free.

The famous Central Sofia Synagogue (Tsentralna Sofiiska Sinagoga) is a large Sephardic synagogue. In the fifteenth century, many Jews exiled from Spain settled in the Ottoman Empire.  At the time of its independence from the Turks, Jews constituted about 20% of Sofia's population. Nearly ninety percent of the population migrated to Israel in the period after the 1950s. The Austrian architect Grunanger designed the Central Sofia synagogue after one in Vienna which was destroyed by the Nazis. The construction began in 1905 and the inauguration took place in 1909.

With a central block of Spanish-Moorish design, and a large central dome lit beautifully by a massive 2250kg (4960lb) chandelier - the structure is an architectural delight. Floral and geometric motifs cover the outer walls. The synagogue was refurbished in the 1990s and was consecrated in 1996. The synagogue was grandiose in design - nearly 1500 worshippers could gather here. However, now services are sparsely attended by a few dozen worshippers.

16 Exarch Yossif Ulica
Tel: (02) 831 273.
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening times: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300; closed Bulgarian and Jewish holidays.
Admission: Free.

If you want a pleasant invasion of your senses Sofia style, you must stop by the Zhenski Pazar, the largest market in Sofia. It offers a tempting range of vegetables and fruit, cheese, cured meats, homemade halva, figs and dried fruit, nuts and other exotic produce, some of Turkish origin.  Unlike the Hali, the Zhenski Pazar was a women's stronghold - long ago, all stall owners were women, but now both male and female country hill folk travel long distances to town each morning, to stock their wares. The shops selling fake designer clothes and tourist trap items are disappointing, and the atmosphere is chaotic but nevertheless it makes for a fun experience. Quaint Turkish cafes sprout beyond the market in most directions.

Stefan Stambolov Boulevard, between Slivnitsa Boulevard and Exarch Yossif Ulica.
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800.
Admission: Free.

Beyond Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, the Boulevard Maria Louiza turns north, to the Banya Bashi Dzhamiya (Mosque). Despite a rich Islamic history, this is still the city's only surviving active mosque. Nearby you will chance upon a cluster of monuments from the early part of the twentieth century - the famous Tsentralnata Banya (Central Baths), Tsentralni Hali (Central Food Halls) and a grand synagogue. The boulevard then loses itself in a more shanty part of the city, and finally halts at the Central Station. The Zhenski Pazar (Women's Market) lies to the left of the station.

The charming Vitosha Boulevard lies to the south, with the crest of Mount Vitosha as the distant backdrop. Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard is another impressive boulevard to the east corner of Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya; it meanders by the unique Tsurkva Sveta Nikolai (St Nicholas Russian Church) and ends at Alexander Nevski Ploshtad. Your gaze will be compelled to rest on two of Sofia's most recognised buildings ­ Hram-pametnik Aleksander Nevski (St. Alexander Nevski Memorial Church) and the Tsurkva Sveta Sofia (early Byzantine Church of St. Sofia).

There is also a chance for you to seek treasure underground! A large part of the ancient city of Serdica is buried underneath important modern buildings. The ancient city council is hidden under the Sheraton hotel, a number of basilicas are below the Palace of Justice, and a Roman residence with elaborate mosaics is below the Rila Hotel.